Region 34B The Lake District - North Western Fells

Grasmoor

Grasmoor is the highest of the beautiful north-western fells, an area characterised by long high ridges. A variety of ridge circuits can incorporate this vast flat summit. Probably the best walk is the Coledale horseshoe which traverses the magnificent ridge over Causey Pike, Scar Crags, Sail, Eel Crag and perhaps Wandope. From here it is a simple grassy diversion to Grasmoor summit. It should be noted that although grass predominates the name has only a single s and derives from the same root as its neighbour Grisedale Pike referring to 'Grice' or wild boar. Come down to Coledale Hause along the northern crags. Escape can be made down Coledale but if time permits continue to Grisedale Pike (another Marilyn), preferably taking in Hopegill Head en route. This walk is just as good, or perhaps even better, done in the opposite direction. As I finished on Causey Pike one glorious summer evening a glider soared past almost close enough to touch.

Another superb circuit can be made from Lanthwaite Green. The mountain is seen at its most imposing on this western side and the ascent is arduous, first over steep scree and then up an easy rocky ridge. As Wainwright says, this route is probably less difficult than the North Wall of the Eiger! The picture shows the stunning view which is the reward for one's exertions on reaching the west end of the summit plateau. Continue to Coledale Hause and Hopegill Head and use the lovely ridge of Whiteside to return to your car. Better still use the bus and walk right on over Causey Pike to Keswick.

Grisedale Pike

Grisedale Pike is the highest summit of the beautiful Coledale Horseshoe unless a diversion is made to Grasmoor which lies off the main ridges to the west. The most popular ascent (or descent if the circuit is being done in a clockwise direction) is from Braithwaite over the little outlier Kinn and up the east ridge which is quite loose and steep towards the top. This ridge is shown in the first picture with Skiddaw behind. A more comfortable descent can be made along the easily graded north-east ridge which has a broken wall along it and leads down into the Thornthwaite Forest where the forest leaflet is helpful to find a way out amongst a maze of tracks. The north-east ridge is shown in the second picture with Lord's Seat behind.

Dale Head

Dale Head can be very easily peak bagged from the top of the Honister Pass. The first picture shows the grassy slopes on this side of the hill, forming the backdrop to a Brocken spectre. A far more interesting circuit can be made from the northern side. There are various possibilities. My latest climb came up over Catbells and High Spy. Since High Spy only misses being a Marilyn by 2 metres this is a relatively strenuous approach and the ascent from Dale Head Tarn seems hard work. On 28th January 1997 I stripped down to a t-shirt for this climb. There was no breath of wind and the sun shone from a cloudless sky. The morning had been frosty and from Catbells I had looked down on a sea of mist in Borrowdale. The second picture shows the neat and tidy cairn on Dale Head summit with High Spy immediately behind, Blencathra and Clough Head beyond and the Pennines scarcely visible on the far horizon. I continued to Hindscarth and came down the splendid Scope End ridge.

Robinson

Robinson and Dale Head can easily be combined in a single horseshoe from the Newlands Valley. The disadvantage is that the lovely Scope End ridge of Hindscarth cannot then conveniently be used. The north ridge of Robinson is also pleasing however. It starts with a steep grassy climb onto the long ridge of High Snab Bank. This ridge culminates abruptly against the steeper slopes of Robinson and a couple of rocky steps must be negotiated to reach the summit. In the picture, taken on Catbells, the slopes of Dale Head are on the left, Hindscarth in the middle and Robinson on the right just catching a stormy shaft of sunlight.

Blake Fell

Blake Fell is the highest of the grassy hills to the south of Loweswater. Being lower and less dramatic than their neighbours farther east they tend to be somewhat less crowded. An ascent could be made from Maggie's Bridge climbing very steeply onto the outlying top Carling Knott. Perhaps the most attractive approach is from Felldyke past Cogra Moss and up the well defined grassy ridge over Low Pen and High Pen. This ridge swings round in a complete semicircle to reach the top of Blake Fell with superb views into the heart of the western fells as shown in the first picture. The second was taken just below the summit looking across Lorton Vale to Whiteside and Grasmoor.

Low Fell

This picture was taken from the summit of Low Fell looking east towards Crummock Water. The fell is the culminating point of a wedge of rather agricultural high ground to the north of Loweswater. The traverse southwards over Fellbarrow is pleasant enough though. A direct descent to the lake is now blocked by forest and it is better to retreat northwards and join the good track down to Thackthwaite. From here it is a pleasant stroll back northwards along the quiet lane to Low Lorton where cars can be parked near the phone box. Preferably do it in the snowdrop season.

Swinside

We have a guidebook, dated 1902, which suggests the ascent of Swinside as a 'pleasant stroll' from Keswick. Now it is covered in trees and surrounded by 'private' notices. Surprisingly for a hill so close to the heart of the Lake District there seems to be no demand for access, leaving it as a haven for the tresspasser who may find solitude on its secluded forest tracks. No path leads to the summit and indeed a direct approach encounters unpleasantly rough and overgrown terrain. My favourite circuit, for a quick walk of little more than one hour, enters at the first, easily climbed, gate as one approaches from Portinscale. A couple of right forks lead one close under the north top and one can then scramble up through the trees to this exquisite viewpoint which gives a unique view both of Keswick, seen across the northern end of Derwentwater, and of Bassenthwaite Lake beyond the exceptionally flat plain of the Vale of Keswick. From here the main summit is reached easily, without obstruction from trees, and it reveals the Vale of Newlands, perhaps the most beautiful of all the Lakeland valleys, surrounded by the ridges of the north-western fells. By back tracking a short distance northwards a way can be made down through the trees to a track on the eastern flank of the hill which can be followed northwards to rejoin the outward path. The picture, taken from the Newlands flank of Catbells, shows Swinside silhouetted against Skiddaw.

Update 18/10/97:
Recent felling has cleared a large area on the eastern side of the hill and it is now possible to reach the main summit with very little bracken bashing by entering the second gate as you travel south from Portinscale. The north top is still rough and trackless but it is well worth the extra effort to visit this superb vantage point. I have accumulated a fair bit of evidence of historic access to this hill. Apparently it was one of the seven 'stations' around Derwentwater which were visited by Victorian tourists. It was the custom to turn one's back on the scene and view it through a convex mirror, a Claude Glass, to better appreciate its artistic qualities. I have no intention however of pursuing any case for a general right of access to this hill, still less any widespread promotion of its delights. There are certainly deer and probably badgers which would be seriously disturbed if it became as popular as nearby Catbells. So let this hill remain the exclusive domain of a few mad Marilyn baggers and those connoisseurs who visit my web page!


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